Too Hot To Smoke.
March 11th, 2005 by mercurialA few minutes ago, at 4:45 or so, the digital thermostat in my apartment read 82 degrees. In my apartment, with the windows open and the fan on! In the sun, it is much hotter, but I wouldn’t know anymore, as I have taken refuge on the balcony.
Today at work it was sweltering and hectic, with all five of us harried cafe workers guzzling water and San Pellegrino sodas while washing dishes, serving food, making espresso drinks. The mornings have been beautiful; I wake before dawn, and my walk down the hill to the train station is backlit by the strange green light that precedes warm days staining the night behind the Oakland/Berkeley hills. I get to watch the sky turn brighter and brighter while I ride the train; nothing like those first few early morning shifts where I walked in pitch darkness - my first opening shift I even saw an owl! I like having a schedule that has me up at the same time everyday; on my two mile round trip walk to the train, from the train to work, from work to the train and from the train home I get to watch the seasons change around me. New birds flock to the shores of Lake Merritt, the earliest flowers wither away to be replaced by shimmering daffodils and plum blossoms, the sunshine brings lovers out in droves.
I have realized how much I love the regulars at work. There’s Peter, the tall and distinguished British man with spectacles and dark hair who orders an egg salad sandwich and a cafe au lait every afternoon, then sits on the patio and scrapes the bottom of his au lait bowl with a demitasse spoon, savoring every tiny bite of leftover foam. I recognize his bowls when they come back to be washed, take special care to lay out the anchovies and sun-dried tomatoes on his sandwich. There’s Elliott, who comes in once in the morning and sometimes again in the afternoons, nervous and unmarried, a shy but brilliant freelance journalist with endless health complaints who is working on a historical nonfiction book that he describes as opulent and romantic, investigating the Indian/German Conspiracy Trials of 1917. Every morning he orders poached eggs with dry toast, cooked medium. Donna arrives right before we close, a beautiful professional woman who wears the best lipstick I’ve ever seen - deep rose pink, perfectly augmenting her caramel-colored skin. She has a cafe au lait, and, depending on the fruit in the preserves, sometimes an order of buckwheat crepes with jam. And Michael, jovial and perky, a wine merchant from next door who comes in for his English Breakfast or yunnan tea so frequently (sometimes five times a day) that we joke about putting him on the Cafe Fanny payroll. While I’m on my lunch break I sit with my olive tapenade and mozzarella sandwich, watching him carry boxes of wine to people’s cars, on easy days he grins and winks at me, or shrugs and lifts his eyebrows if the work day is not going well. And Ken and Anne-Marie, an elderly couple who always split an order of levain toast, rhubarb-lemon marmalade and an americano with low-fat milk for Anne-Marie, jam and regular coffee for Ken. They talk about cultural events: the ballet, the cinema, Booker-Prize-winning literature. The beautiful thing about Cafe Fanny is that the regulars recognize each other: Ken & Anne-Marie often share their place at the bar with another charming older British man, who joins in their conversations; Michael answers questions about wine while in line to order his tea; Al with his jumbo-sized architecture books talks about the wonders of the temples built in the Middle East; Bob, who comes in every morning right after we open for coffee and breakfast, tells anyone who will listen about the language barrier between himself and his Mexican wife; Donna listens patiently to the health complaints of a pinched blonde who usually has a mocha.
I am beginning to really love the job, to understand what it was Alice Waters had in mind when she started the cafe. I find more parallels between my life and that of Amelie Poulain than I ever could have asked for now, working at this French cafe and lately, more and more frequently trying to find secretive, loving ways to brighten strangers’ lives. I want to leave chalk paintings on lonely people’s doorsteps; poems for the awkward, fumbling tobacconist on Grand Avenue; words of inspiration and hope for the sweet African man at the Grand Lake Theatre, who speaks mostly French and blushes horribly when he stumbles over English phrases.
Tomorrow I have the day off, and plan to spend my time lounging by the lake, taking pictures, arranging my apartment. There are small challenges to overcome here: the refrigerator is large and ungainly, difficult to open all the way. The shower fixture is not particularly compatible with the clawfoot tub, the linoleum in my kitchen is peeling at the corners like a ripe fruit, the hallway reverberates with the buzz of a vacuum cleaner, the throb of hip-hop. In the foyer there is the dusty perfume of ancient cigarettes, and the distinct sensation of a watchful ghost - which I admit was welcome today, as the icy feelings rushing up and down my arms upon entry provided momentary relief from the punishing heat. I will put pictures up in a photo album for everyone to see.
This is the challenge of blogging: I type phrases like that one and wonder if anyone is actually reading this. You should tell me if you are, I’ll write more.